How To Repair Wooden Eaves

I have "muddled through" many domicile renovation projects and enjoy sharing my discoveries of how (not) to do it yourself.

The obligatory "before" movie. The corner of the fascia board has rotted away.

Soffit and Fascia

Eaves are a vulnerable part of your house, exposed to conditions and damage by falling limbs. Luckily, they aren't too difficult to repair when the inevitable happens and repair is needed. And then, if your eaves are wooden, and you lot have some impairment to your fascia board to deal with, then allow's await at the process.

"Fascia?"

That's the name for the vertical board or panel on the front end of your eaves. Its complement is the "soffit"—the board that forms the bottom of the structure—and technically, that's the only office that's really supposed to be called the "eave."

The first matter is getting to the eaves, which means having to utilize a ladder. That'southward the dangerous role, especially if the ground where yous need to piece of work is uneven or sloping. Information technology's of import to find or create an fifty-fifty level surface for the ladder; the photos beneath show what I had to do to achieve that goal.

How to Repair Fascia Boards

Remove the Damage

One time you are upwards the ladder, you need to remove the damaged part of the board. In this example, it was easy considering the damaged section of the board was already curt. Merely if you take impairment to a long section of fascia board, y'all may choose to supersede just the damaged portion. That'south not piece of cake, considering the need to protect the roof decking itself makes it difficult to brand a complete cut across the fascia board. A reciprocating saw—sometimes referred to as a "Sawzall"—is probably your best option.

Here, all I had to do was to pry the damaged board away. This task is much easier if you lot accept a practiced pry bar, such every bit the ane shown below. I was duly grateful.

Pry bar, slightly romanticized.

Fabricate the Replacement Pieces

In one case the damaged board is removed, you are ready to begin fabricating the replacement pieces. Often that will just hateful the main fascia board itself. The mutual board in use for this purpose in Northward America is ane inch thick by six inches wide (the actual dimensions are smaller).

In this instance, though, there was also a thinner triangular piece capping the end of the eave structure. I refer to this—correctly or not—as a "fillet." It'southward made of quarter-inch-thick plywood.

Repair expanse cleared of bad woods and gear up to go.

If you're replacing a corner piece, the easiest way to measure the angle you demand is to use the quondam board every bit a template. You lot can exercise this even if, as was the case in the repair shown, the old board doesn't have a make clean, consummate edge due to the impairment suffered. Just utilise a straightedge to create the straight line you need, every bit shown beneath.

This raises an interesting question. If you wait at the closeup of the original board beneath, you can see that information technology was cut with a 45-degree angle edge at the corner. That is the norm for professional work. That way, there is no exposed stop-grain, and the appearance of the corner is as neat as it can possibly be.

However, for an amateur, achieving a good 45-degree join at the corner can be challenging, as information technology involves cut angles accurately in two dimensions. If you take the tools and technique, by all means, go for it!

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But I chose to avoid this challenge past using butt joints at the corners, allowing me to employ square (90-degree) cuts. That leaves a board with an exposed edge, of course, but by making a clean cut and finishing it thoroughly, I hope that vulnerability to weathering won't increment too much. This is perhaps an instance of how non to practise it—but I don't intendance if a professional of 20 years snickers at me.

(By the way, you can see the ninety-degree edge of the previously-replaced fascia board on the adjoining wall in the movie above. That was actually the betoken at which I decided to go with butt joints.)

Measuring the angle, using old board as template.

Paint, Paint, Paint!

One time the board is cut to fit, pigment it. I believe in painting both faces of the board to improve protect information technology from moisture and insects, though contractors will usually just paint the outside. I use a primer/sealer, such as "Kilz," covering the outside confront only with a tiptop coat of trim pigment.

1 surface area where my piece of work is arguably superior: I paint both surfaces of the replacement board, not just the exposed face. Here the paint dries, supported on a stepladder.

Here's the fascia board nailed in place, waiting for its terminate coat. The scars on the primer coat are minor plenty not to exist a existent trouble, and they are almost inevitable from the nailing process. Damage to paint will exist covered with a finish coat

Supersede the 'Fillet'

The next pace is to supplant the fillet. You can use a slice of paper-thin to create a template or pattern to make full the infinite. I actually drew directly on the scrap piece of plywood used for the repair, but that is harder in some ways, as information technology's like shooting fish in a barrel to confuse the orientation of the piece. I concluded upward with a couple of modest inaccuracies in fit, just decided they weren't enough to justify a second endeavour.

Paint the piece, equally you lot did for the fascia board, and so install it. Looking at the structure I had led me to two conclusions about the installation. First, I didn't desire to pound nails and possibly damage the soffit; and second, I wanted to reinforce the structure of the eave so I wouldn't have to practise another repair later. Reinforcement would also make installation of the fillet much easier.

That reinforcement takes the course of what I telephone call a "crossbar block." Information technology's just a piece of i" ten 2," cut to length. It's attached to the soffit board and the backing board with a couple of screws, and it gives a solid piece to which the fillet will be attached in turn. The photos below show the process.

Batten block checked for fit.

The fillet lath is secured with a couple of finishing screws, as shown below. The inaccuracies are visible in this close-up merely won't be noticeable from the ground when sealed and painted.

Seal It Together

Seal joints with a paintable sealant, both for a shine cease appearance and to keep moisture out. I used a good-quality latex product.

The close-upwardly below shows the joint with the next section of fascia, simply of class all joints should be sealed—that with the fillet, with the soffit, and at the corner of the eave too. Once it has dried, you are set up to paint!

Use a proficient quality sealant—in this instance I used a latex formulation—to seal the joints and comprehend minor imperfections. Make sure the sealant is paintable!

Finishing Touches

The sealed project is finished with a trim pigment—in my example, a gloss white latex enamel. Yous and I know that there were imperfections along the manner. Merely as you lot tin can see, the projection looks adept and should final a good many years.

Of course, if I don't want to have to do more fascia repair, I need to get slap-up on repainting the "good" fascia and soffit so that they don't deteriorate, too! And while I'm at information technology, I'd meliorate remove that disused downpipe you can see, still strapped to the wall at the corner.

Hmm, can that be an commodity, as well?

The obligatory "after" motion picture. Sweet satisfaction!

This article is accurate and truthful to the best of the author's cognition. Content is for advisory or entertainment purposes only and does not substitute for personal counsel or professional communication in business, financial, legal, or technical matters.

Doctor Snow (author) from Camden, South Carolina on September 19, 2019:

As I recall, it was semi. I have read the same as you--and I'd add that there's a reason people similar to use gloss in kitchens!

Ronny on September 19, 2019:

What kind of paint did you employ? Flat, matte, or semi gloss? I know it can be a personal option for many, but I've besides read that apartment paint is harder to clean.

AJOY ADHIKARI on June 25, 2017:

I don't think detailing too much to the customer really helps you lot. Proceed it short & sweet. You will get amend.

Md Snow (author) from Camden, South Carolina on November 06, 2016:

Sounds similar a great tip, cheers! I'm presuming that the West systems filler does expand and contract more like real wood, then?

Coat on Nov 06, 2016:

Problem with bondo and other body fillers is that they dont expand and contract with the wood during the changing seasons. And once it starts great, at that place is the entry point for water and the damage starts all once more. I also use a liquid epoxy mixed with a filler agent such every bit what W Systems offers for all the joints and areas that need filler to close the gap. Easily sandable and very strong secure joints that looks seamless for years to come.

Physician Snowfall (author) from Camden, Due south Carolina on September 22, 2016:

Thanks for that. I've observed a like solution in apply by some local pros--to set up damaged siding without replacing a lath, they applied good onetime Bondo, straight from the auto store, sanded and painted. Completely invisible--and probably a lot more than durable than the board it's patching.

Neil on September sixteen, 2016:

Liquid epoxy is a good solution to the exposed end grain. I use information technology fifty-fifty when I have proper miters.

Doc Snow (writer) from Camden, South Carolina on August 25, 2015:

Thank you for the tip, Tim. I know a lot of readers will capeesh information technology!

Timthetoolman on August 24, 2015:

Did a soffit repair for the offset time. FYI - soffit is but one/8" plywood with a veneer rolled on. Oh, you tin actually buy real soffit but it is made of some weird cloth that you must use a carbon tipped sawblade to cutting. Then, to keep things uncomplicated -- become with the i/8" plywood and purchase a ringlet of the wood veneer. It actually words pretty well.

Medico Snowfall (writer) from Camden, South Carolina on Jan 21, 2015:

Sounds similar a good trick. There's also a Hardie plank composite lath now bachelor for soffit. I'k not sure if they too accept something that would be suitable for fascia. If and so, information technology would exist 'bombproof' as far as rot goes, admitting it'south a bit of a pain to work with in some ways.

Coincidentally, this afternoon should see me using a couple of Hardie soffit planks to supercede some deteriorated lap siding. Information technology's a pretty proficient match for what'southward on at that place--a little thinner than the original, only with a plain cease that seems adequately hard to find in a 12" board.

Eugene Brennan from Ireland on January 21, 2015:

Proficient advice, and voted up!

I've had to practice this several times, in our climate timber doesn't final long unless information technology's hardwood or force per unit area treated softwood which has been primed, and carefully painted.

I usually saturate the cut terminate of the existing fascia board and all the new section with wood preservative. Because its so watery, it keeps soaking in and probably prevents whatsoever farther rot.

Medico Snowfall (writer) from Camden, South Carolina on September 27, 2013:

Sure. In fact, you'd have difficulty (I suspect *great* difficulty) sourcing such long boards. Just bring together them neatly and they'll await fine.

TIM on September 26, 2013:

I am replacing a 25 foot run of fascia lath is it ok to use shorter boards to make information technology easier to handle?

Doc Snow (author) from Camden, Due south Carolina on September 17, 2013:

I'm not sure whether or not I understand your situation correctly. Is your "triangle betoken" similar to what I'm calling the "fillet?"

If so, I installed the fillet butted to the front of the plywood soffit boards, using a batten block to provide good nailing surfaces in each direction. That'due south shown in the fourth-last set up of photos.

But perhaps your question isn't nearly that? I'll help if I can; peradventure you would similar to email me a photo of the pieces you're concerned about? You can practice that via my Hubpages profile page, if so. Of course yous're also welcome to elaborate here, if you similar.

Either way, thanks for your comment, and good luck with your project!

ml on September 17, 2013:

The instructions and pictures were very helpful....I was hoping for instruction of the whole board...up to the triangle indicate, the original 1x6" is not real wood, it has deteriorated (1974 house) and the eave center triangle slice has pulled away from the 1x6" and is hanging on the center shelf board, which was pieced together instead of one long shelf lath(probably another reason this problem happened.) Mainly I'one thousand needing to know if the triangle piece sits behind/in front/or flush up against the existing woods triangle frame. I've removed all the (not)wood 1x6 and am set up to replace with existent wood, but unsure how to match it upwardly and fasten information technology to the triangle piece that the ii 1x6"'s encounter together. thank y'all if you canhelp.

Doc Snow (author) from Camden, Due south Carolina on Nov 03, 2012:

Y'all're very welcome, nick--I appreciate your annotate.

nick on November 03, 2012:

thanks helpful article

Doc Snow (author) from Camden, South Carolina on October 14, 2010:

Well, once again, cheers for stopping by!

Hello, hi, from London, UK on October 14, 2010:

I can't answer your questions because I am not a handyman but I enjoyed reading yous hub which was very comprehensive.

Doc Snow (writer) from Camden, South Carolina on October 14, 2010:

So what practice you think? Should I have sucked it upward and gone for bevelled edges at the corner? Was my ladder technique totally foolhardy? Or--against all odds--did yous actually learn something useful here?

And how about your adventures in dwelling house repair? Let us know. . . we take inquiring minds!

Source: https://dengarden.com/home-improvement/How-Not-To-Fix-Your-Eaves-Fascia

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